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Posted on 10 February 202626 February 2026 by Marine Falconnet — Leave a comment

What you need to know about fleas: biology, behaviour and risks

Fleas are small insects that feed mainly on the blood of dogs and cats. Biological characteristics, behaviour, risks to humans, treatments: here is everything you need to know about fleas.

Objective: to understand them better in order to eliminate them more effectively.

Key information

➡️Fleas are ectoparasitic insects: they feed on the blood of their hosts.
➡️Their hosts are mainly dogs and cats.
➡️They can bite humans, although animals are their preferred hosts.
➡️Flea bites are generally not serious for humans, but they cause severe itching.
➡️ Fleas are present all year round, with seasonal peaks.
➡️A female flea can lay between 20 and 50 eggs per day.
➡️To get rid of them, both the animal and the home must be treated.

What is a flea: description and characteristics of the insect

The flea is a small parasitic insect belonging to the order Siphonaptera (from the Latin sipho, meaning “tube”). It is one of the so-called biting-sucking insects, as it feeds exclusively on blood, which it draws from its hosts (mainly dogs and cats, but sometimes also humans). They are therefore classified as blood-sucking insects, in the same way as mosquitoes.

What does a flea look like?

Fleas are small, wingless insects protected by a layer covered with spines (cuticle).

Size: approximately 3 to 8 mm.
Colour: reddish-brown to blackish.
Body: flattened laterally (on the sides), allowing it to easily slip between hairs or textile fibres.
Legs: highly developed at the rear, capable of propelling the flea several dozen centimetres to move from one host to another.

Their anatomy is designed to:

bite the skin,
suck blood,
move quickly from one host to another by jumping.

Difference from other biting insects

Fleas are often confused with other biting insects, but their behaviour is quite distinct:

Mosquito	flies, bites mainly at night, does not remain on the host permanently.
Bed bugs	does not jump, hides in furniture and only bites to feed at night.
Tick	clings to the skin for a long time and remains attached for several days to feed.

The flea jumps, bites quickly, then returns to its environment (pet basket, carpet, skirting boards, bedding).

For your information, there are three types of fleas:

Fur fleas, which live exclusively on their host
Nidicolic fleas, which live in their host’s shelter: pet basket, nest, burrow, etc.
Sedentary fleas, which remain attached to their host in the same place without moving

Photos of fleas

Life cycle of fleas: eggs, larvae, pupae and adults

1) Flea eggs

After each blood meal, the female flea begins to lay eggs rapidly. She can produce up to 50 eggs per day for 50 to 100 days. An infestation can therefore quickly take hold in a home.

Eggs hatch more easily when:

the temperature is mild to warm (20–30 °C),
the air is humid,
access to food is easy, for example with the presence of domestic animals in the home.

These eggs resemble tiny white grains of rice measuring 0.5 mm.

Where are the eggs laid?

The eggs do not remain attached to the animal. They are mainly found in the environment:

in the coat of dogs or cats (at the time of laying),
then quickly in the soil,
animal baskets and cushions,
rugs and carpets,
dust, cracks in parquet flooring and skirting boards.

Good to know: an interior can be infested even if few adult fleas are visible on the animal. The animal’s movements (walking, scratching, sleeping) are enough to scatter eggs throughout the house.

Flea larvae

After the eggs hatch (between 2 and 10 days), fleas go through a larval stage that lasts between 5 and 11 days. These larvae develop entirely in the environment (not on the animal).

What do flea larvae look like?

Small in size (approximately 1.5 mm),
whitish to translucent in colour,
shaped like a tiny worm,
without legs or wings.

What do they feed on?

Unlike adult fleas, larvae do not bite or suck blood directly. They feed mainly on organic debris (dead skin, dust), dried blood contained in the excrement of adult fleas, or residues found in textiles (carpets, pet baskets, cushions).

This link between adult fleas and larvae explains why an infestation is self-sustaining: the adults indirectly feed the larvae.

Where do the larvae hide?

Flea larvae take refuge in places that are:

dark,
quiet,
protected from traffic.

They are mainly found in:

cracks in the floor,
skirting boards,
carpets and rugs,
pet baskets and blankets,
gaps in wooden floors and dusty areas.

Nymphs

After the larval stage, the flea larva transforms into a nymph by enclosing itself in a protective cocoon made from dust, hair and other debris. This stage lasts a few weeks. During this period, the larva gradually takes on the shape of the adult insect with legs and antennae.

The cocoon protects the future adult flea from:

moderate cold,
dryness,
and even certain insecticides.

The flea can remain in this cocoon for several weeks or even months, waiting for a host.

The adult flea

It is at this stage that the flea becomes a biting-sucking parasite, capable of causing infestation in both animals and humans.

A vital need for blood

In order to survive and reproduce, adult fleas must feed on blood. They bite their host (dogs, cats, but sometimes also humans) using their specialised mouthparts, then suck blood for several minutes.

Without a blood meal, they cannot lay eggs and eventually die.

Although their preferred targets are domestic animals, fleas can also bite humans when:

the host animal is no longer available,
the infestation is severe,
or fleas are already present in the environment (carpets, bedding, sofas).

Life span of an adult flea

When conditions are favourable (heat, humidity, presence of a host), adult fleas can live for up to 3 to 4 months. Fleas can also live for several months without feeding by slowing down their metabolism.

The different species of fleas

Here are the most common species of fleas and their hosts.

The cat flea (Ctenocephalides felis)

The cat flea, or Ctenocephalides felis, accounts for the majority of infestations observed in private homes. It is found in both urban and rural areas, all year round when homes are heated.

Please note that this flea is not specific to cats. It also parasitises dogs and can bite humans if there are no animals present or in the event of a major infestation in the home.

Its bites are often clustered together, very pruritic (they itch intensely) and appear mainly on the legs and ankles in humans..

A particularly resistant flea

The cat flea is known for:

their high reproductive capacity (a female flea lays around 25 eggs per day and 1,000 to 2,000 during her lifetime),
their environmental resistance (eggs, larvae and cocoons survive for a long time in the home),
and their ability to quickly colonise carpets, pet baskets, sofas and cracks in the floor.

Good to know: even if your pet does not go outside much, cat fleas can enter your home via another animal, clothing or an already infested environment.

The dog flea (Ctenocephalides canis)

The dog flea is a species closely related to the cat flea, with which it is often confused. However, Ctenocephalides canis is less widespread. In most cases of infestation in dogs, it is actually Ctenocephalides felis, which is more resistant and better adapted to indoor environments.

In terms of morphology and behaviour, the dog flea is almost identical to the cat flea.

Fleas can transmit worms (Dipylidium caninum) to dogs and trigger allergies.

Other possible hosts

More rarely, there are fleas specific to certain wild animals, particularly rodents and small mammals:

squirrels,
martens,
certain marsupials (in other parts of the world),
rats and mice.

Risks and diseases associated with fleas

Most flea bites are harmless, but in some cases these insects can transmit diseases.

A historical reminder: the plague and the ‘plague flea’

Fleas are infamous for their role in the great plague epidemics of the Middle Ages.

The bacterium Yersinia pestis was transmitted to humans by fleas living on rodents under infestation (particularly rats).

These were known as plague fleas, capable of infecting humans after biting an animal carrying the bacterium. Today, such cases are exceptional in Europe, but this historical episode explains why fleas are classified as potential disease vectors.

Risks to animals

In dogs and cats, flea infestation can cause:

intense itching,
skin lesions caused by scratching (pruritus),
allergic dermatitis caused by flea saliva,
possible transmission of intestinal parasites (tapeworms),
anaemia in young animals in the event of a massive infestation.

Animals are therefore the primary victims of fleas, well ahead of humans.

Risks to humans

In humans, fleas can cause:

multiple bites, often on the legs, ankles or arms,
severe itching,
sometimes local allergic reactions,
in very rare cases, secondary infection if the skin is scratched too much.

The transmission of serious diseases to humans remains very rare, but is theoretically possible in the presence of rodents with infestations or in highly degraded environments.

Certain species of fleas can carry bacteria that cause:

prolonged fevers,
headaches,
intense fatigue,
skin rashes.

Flea bites

Fleas are biting-sucking insects: they pierce the skin to feed on blood.

What does a flea bite look like?

The bites are often clustered together, extremely itchy and located on the legs, ankles or arms.

On the skin, these bites take the form of small pink or red spots with a brighter dot in the centre.

Unlike a mosquito, which bites only once, fleas can bite several times in a row as they move around. Animals are the first victims of fleas, long before humans.

Itching and risks associated with scratching

Flea bites cause severe itching (caused by the insect’s saliva), sometimes accompanied by slight local swelling.

➡️ Tip: clean the bitten area with soap and water, apply a soothing or antiseptic cream, and avoid scratching to limit complications.

Some sensitive individuals may experience a local allergic reaction.

Consult your doctor if necessary.

Difference between flea, mosquito and bedbug bites

Insect	Appearance of the bite	Organisation of injections	Areas of the body most affected
Chip	Small red spots, sometimes with a central dot	In clusters or short rows	Legs, ankles, feet
Mosquito	Larger, round, and swollen button	Isolated	Arms, legs, face, exposed areas
Bed bugs	Red buttons in a row (1 to 5)	Online or in a regular group	Arms, back, neck, shoulders

Bed bugs or bed bugs?

People often mistakenly refer to bed bugs as “fleas in bed”. This is a linguistic error: there is no species called “bed flea”.

These are two very different insects, even though they both bite and live in the human environment.

Confusing fleas with bed bugs can lead to incorrect treatment:

for fleas, you need to treat the animal, floors and textiles,
for bed bugs, you need to target bedding, furniture and corners near the bed.

Flea treatments

Flea treatment must always be comprehensive, as simply eliminating the insects visibles ne suffit pas : les œufs, larves et cocons restent présents dans l’environnement et peuvent relancer une infestation.

Treat your pet (essential)

If you have a dog or cat, the first thing to do is to use a suitable flea treatment:

spot-on pipettes,
flea collars,
veterinary tablets.

Without treating your pet, the fleas will continue to feed and reproduce.

So remember to consultlter votre vétérinaire dès que possible.

Dealing with housing

Please note that during an infestation with fleas, 5% of the insects are found on the animal and 95% in the home.

You must therefore treat your home thoroughly:

Vacuum carpets, skirting boards, sofas, baskets and cracks thoroughly.
Wash textiles (cushions, blankets, baskets) at a high temperature.
If necessary, use specific insecticides, fumigants or flea traps to reduce the adult population.

➡️ For more information: How to get rid of fleas effectively?

FAQ

Can fleas live on humans?

No. Fleas may bite humans to feed, but they do not live on them permanently. They prefer animals (dogs, cats, rodents) whose fur provides them with warmth, protection and regular access to blood.

Do fleas jump on beds?

Yes. Fleas can jump onto a bed if it is close to an area affected by infestation (pet basket, carpet, skirting boards).
They do not live there permanently, but they can:
– bite during the night,
– fall off the body of an animal sleeping on the bed,
– hide in textiles (blankets, sheets).

Can an house with an infestation get rid of fleas on its own?

No. An infestation of fleas does not disappear spontaneously.
Without treatment:
– eggs continue to hatch,
– larvae develop in hidden corners,
– adults feed and reproduce.
– Action must be taken on both the animals (flea treatment) and the home (vacuuming, washing, targeted treatment).

Are flea bites dangerous?

Most of the time, they are not serious, but:
– they cause intense itching,
– they can become infected if scratched,
– some people develop more severe allergic reactions.

How to recognise an infestation of fleas?

Several signs may indicate an infestation:
– clusters of bites on the legs, ankles or folds of skin,
– visible fleas in an animal’s coat,
– small black dots (faeces) in baskets, rugs or cushions,
– animal scratching intensely,
– sensation of rapid, repeated bites in the home.

Posted on 6 January 202626 February 2026 by Marine Falconnet — Leave a comment

How to get rid of silverfish?

The silverfish, also known as the ‘silverfish,’ is a small insect measuring 10-15 mm with two long antennae that moves like a fish. It is often found in warm, dark corners of the home. Although harmless to humans, the presence of this small insect can be disturbing. It’s not very pleasant to see them swarming around your home! So how can you get rid of silverfish? Here are some natural solutions for effective treatment and prevention tips.

Natural methods for getting rid of silverfish

Here is a series of effective treatments against silverfish using products that are easy to find and safe for your health.

Baking soda

Easy to find, inexpensive and non-toxic to humans, baking soda is very useful for cleaning.

How does baking soda affect silverfish?

Specifically, it acts in two ways on silverfish:

By ingestion: attracted by organic residues, silverfish ingest the bicarbonate, which disrupts their digestive system and causes their death.
By desiccation: this powder absorbs moisture and gradually dries out the bodies of silverfish.

How to use bicarbonate of soda?

You can place it in areas where silverfish hide and circulate:

along skirting boards,
in dark corners,
under sinks and near pipes,
in storage rooms, cellars or laundry rooms,
behind furniture and at the back of cupboards.

➡️Tip: you can mix the bicarbonate of soda with a little sugar or flour to make the trap more attractive. Place the mixture in small bowls or directly on the floor.

Please note that bicarbonate of soda does not act on silverfish eggs or on the cause of the problem (damp, cracks). It must be combined with other measures (cleaning, reducing damp, prevention) to eradicate the infestation permanently.

White vinegar

White vinegar acts as a repellent against silverfish. Feel free to spray it in areas where insects are likely to pass through and/or clean your surfaces with it.

Diatomaceous earth

Diatomaceous earth is a mineral powder derived from fossilised microalgae, which is completely natural when used for food purposes (uncalcined). It is an effective treatment against many harmful insects such as silverfish and bed bugs.

How does diatomaceous earth work?

Upon contact, insects gradually dehydrate and die within a few days. Diatomaceous earth works equally well on adults and young specimens.

How can you use it effectively at home?

Sprinkle a thin layer of diatomaceous earth where silverfish tend to travel: along skirting boards, in cracks and crevices, under sinks and around pipes, etc. Avoid making visible piles; instead, try to create light barriers that the silverfish will cross.

Silverfish and bleach: avoid!

Be careful, this is a bad idea. Contrary to what you might think, bleach can actually attract silverfish. It leaves surfaces damp after rinsing (which these insects like), its smell disappears quickly and it is not a long-lasting repellent.

Traps for silverfish

Sticky traps

Sticky traps are simple and effective for capturing silverfish during their night-time movements. You can find them in shops.

How it works:

Silverfish travel along walls, skirting boards and pipes. When they cross the adhesive surface, they become trapped.

Homemade traps

Silverfish feed on materials rich in starch and cellulose.

Here are two trap ideas you can use at home.

Damp cardboard trap:

Take a piece of plain cardboard (without ink).
Dampen it slightly.
Roll it up and place it in a dark corner overnight.
In the morning, collect the cardboard filled with silverfish and throw it into a sealed bag.

Starch trap:

Sprinkle a little flour, cornflour or starch into a small container.
Place it near the infested areas.
Silverfish are attracted to it, gather there and can then be disposed of.

👉 By combining these traps with regular cleaning and reducing humidity, you greatly increase your chances of getting rid of silverfish for good.

When should chemical treatments be used?

In most cases, natural methods are sufficient to get rid of silverfish, especially when there are only a few. However, if the insects keep coming back after cleaning and there are too many of them, certain insecticide treatments in powder or gel form may be useful.

⚠️ Before use:

read the product instructions carefully,
ventilate the room well,
avoid applying to surfaces that come into contact with hands or food,
wear gloves and never mix several products.

How can you find silverfish nests?

Unlike other pests, silverfish do not build visible nests such as ant hills or swarms. However, they do gather in areas that are favourable to their development, where they feed, reproduce and lay their eggs.

Silverfish primarily seek:

moisture,
darkness,
calm,
and organic matter to consume (paper, glue, dust, food residues).

They avoid light and mainly come out at night.

What to do in the event of an infestation in a building?

When silverfish appear in an apartment, it is highly likely that the problem is not isolated. In a building, these silvery insects can easily move from one dwelling to another through pipes, service ducts, crawl spaces and cracks. This is often the case in old or very damp buildings (basements, ageing drainage systems). Rest assured, however, silverfish are not harmful to your health.

To find out if the infestation is widespread, do not hesitate to ask your neighbours.

Notify the property manager and your landlord

This is the first thing you should do. You can send an email to your property manager and landlord, specifying the areas affected by infestation (apartment, common areas). Include photos if possible.

Arrange for collective treatment

In a building, it is often necessary to call in a professional pest control company.

An exterminator will be able to:

propose a prevention plan to avoid re-infestation.
detect the infested areas,
apply targeted treatments in the common areas,
use appropriate and regulated products,

Who should pay for collective treatment against silverfish?

In principle, it is the co-owners’ association that should pay for treatment against silverfish. The property manager is responsible for ensuring the maintenance and cleanliness of the common areas.

Effective ways to prevent silverfish

Prevention is essential to stop silverfish from reappearing after treatment. Here is an effective checklist to limit the risk of infestation.

Reduce humidity

Ventilate each room for at least 10 to 15 minutes every day.
Use a dehumidifier in damp rooms (bathroom, cellar, laundry room).
Repair water leaks quickly (siphons, seals, pipes).

Clean regularly

Clean floors, skirting boards and under furniture with a household cleaner.
Vacuum corners, cracks and dark areas where silverfish like to hide.
Wipe up any standing water immediately.
Place all food in sealed, watertight containers.
Pick up any crumbs that have fallen on the floor or worktop.

Eliminate hiding places

Declutter cellars, storage rooms and cupboards.
Avoid accumulating cardboard boxes, paper, newspapers or damp textiles.
Store items stored on the floor on raised shelves.

Seal entry points

Seal cracks in walls, skirting boards and floors.
Check the seals around pipes, baths and sinks.
Fit fine mesh screens over ventilation openings if necessary.

Key takeaway: A dry, clean, and well-ventilated home is the best way to prevent silverfish from returning.

FAQ

Where are the silver fish hiding?

Silverfish are discreet, nocturnal insects. They hide during the day in dark, quiet, damp places, then come out at night to feed.

They are most often found:
– behind skirting boards and under floors,
– in pipes, siphons and under sinks,
– at the bottom of rarely used furniture, drawers and cupboards,
– in bathrooms, toilets, cellars and laundry rooms,
– near washing machines, water heaters or poorly ventilated areas.

Why do I have silverfish in my home?

Silverfish are transported by humans via wooden, cardboard or paper objects.

Once they have entered a home, they proliferate if there is:
– high humidity (wet rooms, poor ventilation),
– water leaks or condensation,
– dark, uncleaned corners,
– the presence of materials they consume: paper, cardboard, dust, glue, food residues, mould,

They can also come from your neighbours’ homes via shared pipes or ducts.

Are silverfish dangerous to your health or your home?

No, silverfish are not dangerous to human health:
– they do not sting,
– they do not bite,
– they do not transmit any diseases.

However, they can be a nuisance in public buildings or homes:
– they can damage books, papers, cardboard, wallpaper,
– their repeated presence is often a sign of a damp problem that needs to be fixed.

Do silver fish leave on their own?

No, silverfish do not disappear spontaneously. As long as conditions are favourable (humidity, dark hiding places and food available), they will remain and reproduce. Even if you see fewer of them for a while, it is highly likely that they are hiding elsewhere (skirting boards, pipes, cracks).
Without targeted treatment, the infestation will almost always return.

How long does a silverfish live?

Silverfish live for an average of 3 years and up to 8 years.
This longevity explains why they are difficult to eradicate:
– they can survive for long periods without eating,
– they reproduce slowly but steadily,
– they can remain hidden for several months before reappearing.

What do silver fish eat?

Silverfish are omnivorous insects that feed mainly on materials rich in starch, sugar or cellulose.

They consume, in particular:
– paper, cardboard, books and newspapers,
– glue (wallpaper, bindings, cardboard),
– dust and organic residues,
– mould and microalgae associated with humidity,
– certain natural textiles (cotton, linen, silk),
– food residues that have fallen on the floor (flour, sugar, crumbs).

Posted on 15 December 202526 February 2026 by Marine Falconnet — Leave a comment

How to recognise a food moth infestation: instructions

Food moths are insects that feed on our food and reproduce very quickly. An infestation can go unnoticed for several days, as the eggs and larvae hide in corners, drawers or directly in your dry food. The sooner you identify the problem, the easier it is to get rid of it.

To help you, here are our tips for quickly recognising food moths at every stage of their life cycle.

Where do food moths come from?

Contrary to popular belief, food moths (sometimes called moths) do not necessarily come from poor hygiene. They most often arrive with the food itself.

Here’s how they get into your home:

Products already infested in the shop: microscopic eggs can be found in a packet of flour, rice or cereal.
Eggs present in packaging: even if unopened, a packet may contain eggs laid during packaging.
Originating from another home: adult moths can move from one flat to another, especially in buildings with windows.

Once settled, female moths immediately look for a place to lay their eggs: they prefer dry foods (pasta, rice, flour, dried fruit, etc.), especially when stored in soft packaging that is easy to pierce.

Where do they hide?

Food moths like dry, dark places with little movement.

They are often found in:

poorly sealed jars,
cardboard or plastic packaging,
drawers,
corners and nooks of shelves,
under or behind food bags.

Do food moths build nests?

Unlike other insects, food moths do not build “nests” in the traditional sense. They do not construct organised structures, but simply lay their eggs in suitable locations.

Food moths or clothes moths?

Criteria	Food moths	Clothes moths
Where can they be found?	Kitchen cupboards, jars, packets, drawers, nooks and crannies	Cupboards, wardrobes, carpets, woollen textiles
What they eat	Dry foodstuffs: flour, pasta, rice, cereals, dried fruit	Natural textile fibres: wool, silk, feathers, fur
Appearance of the adult butterfly	Small brown or grey butterfly measuring 1 to 1.5 cm	Small golden yellow or beige butterfly measuring 0.8 to 1 cm
Appearance of larvae	Whitish, approximately 1 cm in size, present in food	White or cream, in fabrics or carpets
Signs of infestation	Silky threads in packages, moths in the kitchen, larvae in foodstuffs	Holes in clothing, fibrous dust, small cocoons on fabrics
Spawning area	Directly in foodstuffs or packaging	In textiles, seams, wool
Health hazard	Low (potential allergy risks)	No immediate danger
Risk of rapid infestation	Very high (females lay up to 300 eggs)	Medium to high (slower growth)

Recognising an infestation according to the 4 stages of development

Stage 1 – Food moth eggs

Food moth eggs are very difficult to spot, even when you know there is an infestation.

What do these eggs look like?

Size: approximately 0.3 to 0.5 mm, invisible to the naked eye.
Colour: off-white to pale yellow.
Location: always deposited in contact with food, as the larvae feed immediately after hatching.
Hatching time: 4 to 7 days: heat (between 20 and 30°C) promotes faster hatching.

Most infestations are caused by eggs already present in food at the time of purchase. This is why moths can be found even in perfectly clean cupboards..

Good to know: a female butterfly can lay 200 to 300 eggs in a single batch.

Stage 2 – Food moth larvae

Food moth larvae are the most problematic stage for several reasons:

they devour your food, cereals and dried fruit
they spin webs that contaminate the entire food supply
they move out of the packets to pupate in cupboards

What do the larvae look like?

Colour: whitish to cream, sometimes slightly translucent
Size: 5 to 15 mm depending on age
Shape: elongated body, darker head
Mobility: they move slowly and squeeze into corners, folds in packages or even under poorly closed lids
Duration in larval form: 2 to 4 weeks

How can you spot them?

As they move around, the larvae leave silky threads in dry food (like small spider webs).

Stage 3 – The moth chrysalis

After the larval stage, the food moth transforms into a chrysalis. At this stage, the infestation in your kitchen is well established.

Moth larvae seek out dry, dark and undisturbed places to pupate.

They often settle in:

The corners of cupboards and shelves
The corners of drawers
Under or behind infested packages
Hinges and hard-to-reach areas
Along skirting boards or on the ceiling of the cupboard

These cocoons can remain in place for several days before the moth emerges to take its adult form..

Stage 4 – Adult food moth butterflies

The adult food moth is a brown-grey butterfly measuring approximately 1 cm. It is an insect that flies slowly and erratically. These butterflies do not eat your food, but they reproduce by laying eggs. You can usually see them around kitchen lights, window sills, open cupboards or when you lift up an infested packet.

When you see one or more adult moths, it’s time to give your kitchen a thorough clean.

What to do in case of a food moth infestation?

If you spot larvae, silky threads, moths or cocoons in your cupboards, you need to act quickly: a food moth infestation will never disappear on its own.

The priority is to remove contaminated food, clean thoroughly and then protect your food in airtight containers.

We have detailed all the steps in our comprehensive article:

➡️ How to get rid of food moths for good?

Photos of food moths

Posted on 12 December 202526 February 2026 by Marine Falconnet — Leave a comment

How to get rid of clothes moths: instructions

Have you noticed holes in your clothes and textiles? Moths have probably taken up residence in your cupboards and drawers. It is best to act quickly, as these small butterfly-like insects can lay up to 200 eggs in their lifetime! So, how can you get rid of clothes moths quickly? How can you prevent them from coming back? Follow our advice.

Key takeaways

➡️ It is not adult moths that make holes in clothes, but their larvae.
➡️ A female clothes moth can lay up to 200 eggs in her lifetime.
➡️ Clothes moths love dark, dry places that are undisturbed.
➡️ ️ The first signs of infestation are: irregular holes, small whitish larvae, cocoons, fibrous dust, or moths flying around when you open the wardrobe.
➡️ To get rid of moths, you need to treat the fabrics, clean the entire wardrobe thoroughly, and then install natural repellents or pheromone traps.

See also: How to get rid of food moths?

Clothes moths: introduction

Clothes moths, also known as textile moths (Tineola bisselliella), are small pests that attack natural fibres directly.

A four-stage life cycle

1. Eggs

Females lay up to 200 eggs directly on textiles or in the corners of wardrobes. The eggs are tiny and invisible to the naked eye.

2. Larvae

It is the larvae that hatch from the eggs that make holes in your clothes. They feed on keratin, a protein found in:

wool,
untreated cotton,
silk,
cashmere,
feathers and fur.

They then dig the famous moth holes in clothes, throws, carpets or blankets. Clothes that have been stored for a long time without being washed or protected are the first to be affected.

3. Pupae

The larvae wrap themselves in a cocoon to transform. These cocoons are sometimes visible in the folds or corners of furniture. Generally, these chrysalises are found in dark places such as cupboards, drawers or under carpets.

4. Adult moths

Adult moths have a short lifespan. Their only role is to lay eggs, not to eat textiles.

Good to know: clothes moths can withstand high temperatures of up to 35°C.

Where do clothes moths hide?

Clothes moths prefer places that are:

dry and dark,
warm,
undisturbed.

They are mainly found in:

chests or trunks that are rarely opened.
cupboards,
drawers,
corners of wardrobes,
wardrobes,
non-airtight storage boxes,
chests or trunks that are rarely opened.

Why do clothes moths move into your home?

1. You bring contaminated textiles into your home

Clothes moths can easily find their way into your home via:

Clothes bought in second-hand shops or flea markets, not washed before storage.
Textiles that have been stored in the attic or basement for a long time.
Rugs, throws, blankets or cushions picked up from a friend or relative.
Textile items stored in boxes, which may harbour larvae.

➡️ In 80% of cases, it is the larvae already present in the fibres that trigger the infestation.

2. Your textiles are not being cared for properly

Poorly washed linen, dust, dirty clothes and a lack of ventilation are all factors that encourage the development of mite larvae.

Good to know: Larvae are particularly fond of textiles containing traces of perspiration, sebum, food residues and body odours.

Mistakes that encourage moth infestation

❌ Leaving dirty clothes in a basket.

❌ Keeping textiles in the dark for long periods of time.

❌ Storing fabrics in cardboard bags.

❌ Never airing out cupboards.

❌ Leaving clothes in corners or closed drawers for several months.

5 steps to permanently get rid of clothes moths

Step 1: Treat textiles

If the fabric allows it, wash your clothes in the washing machine at 60°C.

The heat will destroy the larvae, mouthparts and eggs hidden in the fibres.

Instructions:

Wash your infested clothes at a minimum temperature of 60°C (excluding wool).
Then dry them in the tumble dryer at a high temperature for 30 minutes to complete the treatment.
Iron if possible: the heat from the iron helps to eliminate any remaining larvae in the folds.

👉 Ideal for: cotton, sheets, towels, non-delicate clothing.

For wool, cashmere, silk or any delicate fabrics, opt for freezing.

Instructions for use:

Place the garment in an airtight bag.
Freeze at -20°C for at least 72 hours.
Allow to return to room temperature without opening the bag to prevent condensation in the fibres.

Step 2: Clean the wardrobe

After treating your clothes, you need to clean cupboards, wardrobes and drawers, as clothes moths like to hide in corners to lay their eggs and pupate. Without this step, the infestation may return.

Using the nozzle attachment on your vacuum cleaner, start by thoroughly vacuuming every nook and cranny: drawer corners, hinges, under shelves, cracks in the wood, etc.

Then throw the bag away in an outside bin.

Final step: clean with white vinegar.

Mix 50% hot water + 50% white vinegar.
Clean all surfaces of the wardrobe: walls, shelves, drawers, uprights, hinges.
Pay particular attention to corners and areas where dust accumulates.

Good to know: vinegar removes odours and pheromones that attract moths.

Step 3: Use natural repellents

Once your clothes have been treated and your cupboards cleaned, the next step is to prevent clothes moths from returning.

Here are some natural “old wives” remedies’ that work.

1. Cloves

The strong smell of cloves repels moths.

How to use them:

Place a small handful of cloves in a piece of gauze, a cotton bag or muslin.
Place several of these in your cupboards, drawers, suitcases and dark corners.

⚠️ Avoid direct contact with delicate fabrics, as the cloves can leave a lingering odour.

2. Red cedar balls

Red cedar gives off a woody scent that moths hate.

How to use them:

Lightly sand the surface of the wood every 2–3 months to reactivate its scent.

How to use them:

Place a few drops on a cotton ball, porous pebble, or small wooden disc.
Place them in cupboards or drawers, without direct contact with your textiles.
Repeat every 2 to 3 weeks.

⚠️ Never apply essential oil directly to your clothes, as the stains are irreversible!

3. Repellent essential oils

Certain essential oils are very effective as natural repellents:

True lavender
Peppermint
Eucalyptus radiata

How to use them:

Place a few drops on a cotton pad, porous pebble or small wooden disc.
Place them in cupboards or drawers, without direct contact with your fabrics.
Repeat every 2 to 3 weeks.

⚠️ Never apply essential oil directly to your clothes, as the stains are irreversible!

4. Lavender and thyme sachets

Dried lavender and thyme give off a scent that moths do not like.

How to use them:

Place lavender or thyme sachets in drawers, between stacks of laundry or on shelves.
Replace them every 2 to 3 months to maintain the scent.

5. Pieces of Marseille soap

Marseille soap is a traditional repellent that is very effective against clothes moths.

How to do it:

Cut a few pieces of dry soap.
Place them in your wardrobes and drawers.
Avoid direct contact with wool or silk to prevent the scent from becoming too strong.

Step 4: Use pheromone traps and trichogramma wasps

Pheromone traps

Pheromone moth traps attract male moths with a synthetic scent that mimics the sex pheromones of females. The male sticks to the adhesive surface and cannot fly away.

This method has the advantage of being insecticide-free and effectively regulates moth reproduction.

Trichogramma wasps

Trichogramma wasps are tiny microscopic insects, completely harmless to humans, which parasitise moth eggs.

They prevent the larvae, which are responsible for holes in clothing, from hatching.

They disappear naturally after about ten days once the eggs have been consumed.

Trichogramma wasps are often sold in the form of small cards to hang up, which should be replaced every 2 to 3 weeks. You can place them near areas where moths lay their eggs: seams, corners, under shelves.

This 100% natural, insecticide-free method is highly effective in stopping an infestation at an early stage.

Step 5: Store your clothes properly

Clothes moths love cupboards and drawers, but they cannot get into a truly airtight container.

Here are the most effective solutions:

Mothproof zippered covers

These covers are ideal for protecting delicate or rarely used garments: woollen coats, cashmere jumpers, suits, winter clothes, etc.

They prevent moths and their larvae from accessing the fabric fibres while also protecting against dust and moisture.

➡️ Practical tip: Place a lavender sachet or a small cedar ball inside, ensuring it does not come into direct contact with the garment.

Airtight boxes

These are perfect for long-term storage or delicate fabrics (wool, silk, alpaca, cashmere). Choose thick plastic boxes with silicone seals.

Tips for preventing clothes moth infestation

✅ Air out your wardrobes once a week.

✅ Wash clothes before storing them.

✅ Place natural repellents in cupboards.

✅ Store clothes in covers.

✅ Avoid stagnant humidity.

✅ Regularly inspect textiles that are rarely worn.

FAQ

Are clothes moths dangerous?

No, clothes moths pose no danger to human health: they do not sting, bite or transmit any diseases.
The real problem is their larvae, which feed on natural fibres (wool, silk, cashmere, feathers, etc.) and can cause significant damage to your wardrobes.
They are therefore harmful to your clothes, but not to your health.

How can I tell if the holes in my clothes are caused by moths?

Here are some clues that confirm that you are dealing with clothes moths:
– Irregular holes in clothing, often clustered in an inconspicuous area.
– Fibrous dust left behind by larvae as they nibble on fabric.

How long does a clothes moth live?

Lifespan depends on the environment and temperature, but it is estimated that adult butterflies live for 1 to 2 weeks, just long enough to reproduce.

Do moths attack clean clothes?

Yes, clean clothes can be attacked if:
– they contain tiny traces of perspiration,
– perfume residues, sebum or dead skin cells,
– or if they are made of animal fibres (wool, silk, alpaca, cashmere, etc.).

Posted on 12 December 202526 February 2026 by Marine Falconnet — Leave a comment

How to get rid of food moths?

Have food moths invaded your kitchen? These pesky little moths love to hide in our cupboards in search of food. How can you recognise a moth infestation and, more importantly, how can you get rid of them for good? Follow our advice.

Step 1: Empty all infested cupboards and drawers

Start by emptying your cupboards and drawers completely, even if the infestation seems to be limited to a single packet. Food moths move quickly, lay their eggs in corners, and their larvae can hide in unexpected places.

Inspect each food item one by one.

Do not hesitate to throw away any suspicious food, especially dry goods that moths love:

pasta
rice
flour
cereals
seeds and oilseeds
dried fruit
semolina
breadcrumbs
biscuits, cakes, chocolate

Good to know: even a sealed package can be infested. Packaging can be contaminated during the manufacturing process.

Before throwing away infested food, place it in a sealed bag and put it directly into the outside bin. This will prevent moths or larvae from escaping and re-colonising the kitchen.

Step 2 – Clean thoroughly

Once your cupboards are empty, it’s time to clean. The aim is to eliminate eggs, larvae, pupae and moths.

Vacuum every nook and cranny

Use the narrow nozzle of the vacuum cleaner to clean:

hinges,
cupboard corners,
drawer runners,
shelf fixing holes,
silicone seals.

⚠️ Important:

Immediately dispose of the vacuum cleaner bag in a sealed bag and then in the outside bin to prevent re-infestation.

Wash surfaces with hot soapy water and then white vinegar

Use hot water + a few drops of washing-up liquid, then rinse. Leave to dry completely before applying white vinegar.

White vinegar is THE product to have in your kitchen. It cleans, eliminates odours and repels moths thanks to its acidic smell.

How to use it:

Mix 50% hot water + 50% white vinegar.
Soak a sponge or cloth.
Clean all surfaces: shelves, walls, undersides and tops of boards.

Step 3 – Apply a natural repellent

Once the cupboards are dry, you can add natural repellents:

bay leaves,
cloves,
lavender or mint sachets,
a few drops of true lavender essential oil on a cotton pad (avoid direct contact with skin and eyes).

These scents are known to repel food moths.

Step 4 – Freeze certain products

Freezing allows you to:

kill any larvae still present,
destroy eggs before they hatch,
make food safe before putting it back in your cupboards.

If necessary, you can freeze all dry goods that tolerate cold temperatures well: cereals, seeds, almonds, nuts and other dried fruits, etc.

Place them in your freezer for at least 48 hours. Allow them to return to room temperature without opening the bag to prevent condensation. Then transfer the food to an airtight glass jar before storing it in your cupboards.

Step 5 – Store in airtight containers

Be careful, food moths are capable of piercing certain types of packaging, infiltrating tiny nooks and crannies, and even getting into sealed packages. Therefore, nothing can replace airtight containers.

Which containers should you choose?

✅ Glass jars with mechanical closures

✅ Food-grade plastic boxes with silicone seals

✅ Airtight metal containers (tea, semolina, flour)

How can you recognise a food moth infestation?

Food moths are pests that feed on our food supplies and reproduce very quickly. An infestation often starts discreetly, then spreads to all the cupboards, drawers and kitchen cabinets.

Here’s how to identify them quickly.

Presence of larvae

It is the larvae of food moths that are responsible for contaminating food.

They can be recognised by:

their whitish or cream colour, sometimes slightly translucent,
their small size (10 to 15 mm),
their slow movement in packets, jars or corners of furniture,
the presence of silky threads (webs) in food: flour, pasta, muesli, dried fruit, rice, etc.

They love to lay their eggs in dry foods and can squeeze through even the thinnest packaging.

Good to know: you can also purchase contaminated batches directly in shops.

Grey moths in the kitchen

Adult moths resemble small brown-grey moths measuring approximately 1 cm.

You may see them:

flying around lights in the evening,
resting on cupboard walls,
coming out of infested packages when they are moved.

They will readily enter poorly sealed jars, attracted by the smell of cereals and other starchy foods.

How long does it take to get rid of food moths?

It often takes 3 to 4 weeks to permanently solve the problem. Even after a thorough cleaning, a single egg or larva is enough to restart the cycle.

For your information, a food moth goes through four stages:

1. Egg

Deposited on foodstuffs or at the bottom of packages.

➡️ Hatching: 3 to 7 days depending on the temperature.

2. Larva

It feeds and burrows tunnels in the food.

➡️ Duration: 2 to 4 weeks on average.

3. Chrysalis

The larva hides in a corner of the ceiling, cupboard, behind a package or in a crack.

➡️Metamorphosis into a pupa: 4 to 10 days.

4. Adult moth

Males fly, females lay up to 300 eggs in a few days.

Natural solutions against moths

Natural method	What moths dislike	How to use it
Repellent odours	Lavender, mint, eucalyptus, cloves, bay leaves	Place sachets, small dried bouquets or bay leaves in cupboards, drawers and corners.
Essential oils for moth repellent	True lavender, peppermint, eucalyptus, lemongrass	Place 2-3 drops on a cotton pad, diffuser or absorbent paper and place in cupboards or wardrobes.
Repellent plants and spices	Laurel, cloves	Place a few bay leaves in closed jars and cupboards; arrange cloves in a small dish.
White vinegar	Very unpleasant acidic odour for moths	Clean the shelves with a mixture of white vinegar and water, possibly combined with 1 drop of essential oil.

➡️ See also: How to get rid of clothes moths?

How can you prevent moths from returning?

Store all food in airtight containers (glass, metal, thick plastic).
Clean cupboards once a month with white vinegar (shelves, corners, hinges).
Regularly inspect sensitive products: flour, rice, pasta, dried fruit, seeds, cereals, biscuits.
Install pheromone traps to monitor and detect the first male moths.
Use natural repellents (bay leaves, cloves, lavender or mint essential oils).
Clean up crumbs immediately and avoid leaving open packets in cupboards.

FAQ

Do moths get into jars?

No, food moths cannot enter a truly airtight jar (glass + rubber seal + tightly closed lid).
However:
– they can lay eggs on the lid,
– they can infest a jar that is not closed properly,
– they may already be present in the food (eggs laid in the factory or during transport).

What is the smell that moths dislike?

Food moths are sensitive to strong, aromatic odours.
They particularly dislike:
– Lavender
– Peppermint
– Eucalyptus
– Cloves
– Bay leaves

These odours act as repellents, but do not eliminate an infestation.

Are food moths dangerous to health?

No, food moths are not dangerous to human health. They do not bite, transmit diseases or contaminate the ambient air.

Is it dangerous to consume products contaminated by moths?

Some people may be allergic to the proteins found in the droppings or body fragments of these insects. Skin irritation (itching, redness) or respiratory irritation (coughing, breathing difficulties) may occur.
Gastrointestinal problems may also occur, such as nausea, abdominal pain or diarrhoea. These symptoms are generally mild and temporary.

Posted on 8 September 20258 September 2025 by Marine Falconnet — Leave a comment

Bed bugs in condominiums: prevention and treatment measures

Bed bugs are spreading worldwide, including in France. According to a study by Anses, 11% of French households experienced an infestation of bed bugs between 2017 and 2022. Unfortunately, an infestation can spread to an entire building in a matter of weeks and cause numerous problems in everyday life. Preventive measures, existing bed bug treatment, mistakes to avoid, rules for dealing with the issue between co-owners: here is all the practical information you need to know about bed bugs in co-owned properties.

N.B.: this article provides advice for both residents and property managers.

In brief

➡️Bed bugs can quickly spread throughout a building by travelling through walls, floors or service ducts.

➡️ In the event of an infestation affecting several units and/or common areas, the property manager is required to implement appropriate treatment.

➡️ The cost of treatment is divided among the co-owners according to their share of the property.

➡️ Treatment must be comprehensive and coordinated: thermal methods, steam, approved insecticides and, in some cases, canine detection.

➡️ Preventive measures communicated to all residents are essential.

The causes of a bed bug infestation in a building

These insects, which feed on human blood, never appear ‘by chance’.

Here are the main causes of bed bug infestations:

Travel: suitcases and bags brought back from hotels, hostels or accommodation that is already infested.
Second-hand furniture: mattresses, bed bases, sofas or chests of drawers picked up on the street or bought without checking them first.
Clothing and textiles: sheets, curtains or clothing stored in infested communal areas or laundromats.
Mattresses and contaminated items thrown away without precautions
Moving house: a single bug hidden in a box or piece of furniture is enough to infest a new flat.
Visits from outsiders carrying bugs on them

Good to know: the presence of bed bugs is in no way linked to poor hygiene..

Apartment buildings: a breeding ground for bed bugs

Bed bugs are small, highly mobile insects that can travel from one flat to another through walls, floors or service ducts.

In a building, they use multiple passageways to invade new homes:

cracks and gaps in floors or parquet flooring,
pipes, electrical ducts and roller shutters,
bedding, furniture and textiles moved from one flat to another,
common areas (cellars, rubbish rooms, laundry rooms, halls).

The result: an infestation that starts in a single room can quickly spread to an entire floor, or even the entire building, if no collective action is taken.

To make matters worse, the problem is generally underestimated. Very often, those affected delay reporting the presence of bed bugs in their homes for fear of being stigmatised. The infestation then spreads to several flats before collective treatment is considered by the property manager or the co-ownership association.

➡️ In a condominium, it is therefore crucial to act quickly: the earlier the infestation is detected, the simpler and less expensive the treatment will be.

A very complicated daily life for occupants

Bed bugs are often a ‘living hell’. There are many inconveniences:

Constant discomfort: sleep disturbances, itching, anxiety about being bitten at night.
Financial costs: repeated treatments, replacement of infested mattresses, bed bases and furniture.
Tension between neighbours: searching for the person ‘responsible’ for the infestation, conflicts with the property manager or co-ownership association.
A strong psychological impact: stress, social isolation and sometimes shame in talking about it.

Steps to take in the event of bed bugs in a building

Step 1: Report it quickly

The first thing to do is to immediately alert the building manager or property manager. The sooner the problem is dealt with, the more effective and limited the treatment will be. Bed bugs multiply very quickly; an adult female can lay 5 to 10 eggs per day and around 500 during her lifetime. A colony can therefore form very quickly.

It is also important to inform your immediate neighbours (in adjoining flats, above and below) so that they can inspect their homes.

⚠️Do not hide the problem for fear of being stigmatised!

Silence only makes the situation worse and leads to higher costs for the entire building.

Step 2: Inspection and clear diagnosis

Once the infestation has been reported, an inspection must be carried out in the infested flat, as well as in neighbouring flats and certain common areas (cellars, laundry rooms, stairwells).

The areas to be checked as a priority are:

Bedding: mattresses, bed bases, headboards.
Textiles: sheets, curtains, sofas, armchairs.
Structures: skirting boards, cracks in walls, floors, parquet flooring.

To confirm the presence of bedbugs and assess the extent of the infestation, it is often recommended to use a certified detection dog. Sniffer dogs are more than 95% reliable.

Once the detection has been carried out, the dog handler provides a detailed report on the infested areas, accompanied by recommendations for treatment.

Good to know: Choose professionals who are members of the SEDCP: Union of Bed Bug Detection Dog Experts.

Step 3: Implementation of appropriate treatment

Paris, France, le 27 septembre 2023. Philippe désinfecte un appartement de ses punaises de lit. photo : LP / Olivier Corsan

When an infestation is confirmed in a building, it is essential to implement a coordinated treatment plan. At this stage, collective action is essential: several adjoining flats must be treated at the same time, ideally under the supervision of the property manager or a specialist pest control company.

Heat treatment

Heat treatment is currently one of the most effective methods for eliminating bed bugs in flats and buildings. Unlike conventional insecticides, it acts at all stages of the insect’s life cycle, including on eggs, which are often more resistant.

How does it work?

Bed bugs die at temperatures above 55°C, and their eggs are destroyed by rapid heat shock. Professionals use devices that generate dry heat (120°C steam, heat guns, ovens) to treat mattresses, bed bases, furniture, floors and textiles.

Thermal ovens such as the BugBuster can treat large quantities of contaminated items in a minimum amount of time. It is a type of large container equipped with a heat ventilation system.

This heat penetrates the most difficult-to-reach areas: seams, cracks, skirting boards, shutters and behind furniture.

Benefits	Disadvantages
100% environmentally friendly method, without chemicals.	Higher cost than conventional chemical treatment.
Effective against eggs, nymphs and adults.	Must be applied by certified professionals equipped with specialised equipment.
No harmful residues: dwellings can be reoccupied quickly after treatment.	May require several treatments depending on the extent of the infestation in the building.

Insecticide treatment

Chemical treatment remains widely used. It involves applying approved insecticide products to infested areas and their potential hiding places.

Be careful to choose a professional with ‘Certibiocide’ certification. This is mandatory for handling this type of chemical product.

The products generally have a dual effect:

Shock effect, which kills bedbugs on immediate contact.
Residual effect, which acts for several weeks to eliminate insects that hatch afterwards.

Find a licensed professional

⚠️Be careful, scams are common, so ask for several quotes.

A complete protocol must include at least two treatments spaced 7 to 15 days apart in order to eliminate newly hatched eggs and prevent the infestation from returning.

Who is responsible in the event of an infestation in a building?

The main task of a co-owners’ association is to maintain and manage the common areas (Article 14 of Law No. 65-557 of 10 July 1965).

If several units and/or common areas are affected by bed bugs, the infestation may be considered a structural problem. In this case, the property manager or landlord is responsible for organising and financing the treatment of the common areas and affected dwellings (unless otherwise explicitly stated in the co-ownership regulations).

In practice, the property manager has a duty to act to preserve the cleanliness of the common areas. They must organise a rapid response as soon as an infestation is reported.

See also: Bed bugs in university residences.

Who pays for bed bug treatment in a condominium?

The costs of bed bug treatment are divided among the co-owners according to their share of the property.

Good to know: for individuals, there are now bed bug insurance policies that can cover the cost of treating your home.

Prevention and best practices in co-ownership

For co-owners and tenants

Every resident of the building can reduce the risk of infestation by taking simple steps:

If you suspect an infestation, alert your neighbours and the property manager immediately rather than treating it yourself, as this may cause the bedbugs to spread.

Regularly inspect bedding: sheets, mattresses, box springs and pillows.
Check bedrooms for small black spots (excrement), traces of blood or moulted skin.
Wash textiles (sheets, curtains, covers, clothing) at a minimum temperature of 60°C after travelling or staying in a potentially infested place.
Avoid picking up furniture, mattresses or bed bases that have been abandoned on the street or in the common areas of the building.

For the property manager

The fight against bed bugs can only be effective if it is a collective effort. The property manager therefore has a key role to play:

Establish a clear prevention protocol, with the help of certified professionals.
Keep co-owners and tenants regularly informed: posters in lobbies, explanatory letters, information meetings.
Set up a dedicated fund to quickly finance comprehensive treatment in the event of an infestation in several flats or common areas.
Consider preventive canine detection campaigns in the most exposed buildings.

Posted on 3 September 20255 September 2025 by Marine Falconnet — Leave a comment

Nocibilis BugBuster: a powerful heat treatment against bed bugs

Heat treatment is one of the most commonly used methods for eradicating bed bugs. High temperatures kill these pests and their eggs for good. After months of research in collaboration with specialists, Swiss company Nocibilis has developed BugBuster: a clean, safe and ultra-effective thermal oven 2.0. Let’s take a closer look at this method, which is particularly well suited to hotels, local authorities and establishments open to the public.

In brief

➡️ BugBuster is a heat treatment that eliminates bed bugs and eggs without the use of chemicals.

➡️ The solution is particularly suitable for professionals who need to treat large quantities of items without risk of damage.

➡️ The treatment is ultra-fast, with a cycle time of less than 2 hours.

➡️ Combined with SOS Serenid spray, the heat treatment becomes even more comprehensive and long-lasting.

Nocibilis: THE pest control specialist

Based in Geneva, Nocibilis is one of the leading pest control companies in both Switzerland and France.

Pest control, rodent control, pigeon control and disinfection, this specialist works with both private individuals and professionals: hotels, local authorities, airports, nurseries, industries, hospitals and property management companies.

Founded by Yoann Plusquellec, who is passionate about entomology and environmental protection, Nocibilis relies on a team of highly qualified technicians. All are trained and certified by OPER P (Switzerland) and Certibiocide (France), a guarantee of professionalism and safety during interventions. Their expertise in urban entomology enables them to fully understand the behaviour of pests in order to offer truly effective treatments.

The icing on the cake is that Nocibilis is committed to environmentally friendly solutions. The company uses biological, natural or mechanical treatments that are just as effective as chemical products, but without any danger to human or animal health or to materials.

At Serenid, we were delighted to participate in the development of BugBuster, an innovative product that represents a new step forward in bed bug treatment.

Disinfection and pest control: comprehensive protection for all spaces

Nocibilis offers safe, clean and effective disinfection services to eliminate bacteria, viruses and germs in all types of premises. This service is available to businesses, private individuals and sensitive establishments such as hospitals and healthcare centres.

Specialising in the fight against pathogens and the prevention of contamination, Nocibilis has developed recognised expertise, particularly during the COVID-19 pandemic, in effectively protecting businesses and individuals.

The Swiss company also offers tailored treatments to get rid of various pests: wasps and hornets, spiders, ants, wood insects, processionary caterpillars, moths and cockroaches, etc.

Pest control and rodents

Rats, mice, martens, shrews, voles and other rodents are a threat to health, safety and infrastructure..

Nocibilis offers safe, fast and environmentally friendly solutions to eliminate these pests permanently..

BugBuster : the thermal oven 2.0

After several months of intensive research and testing, the BugBusteris finally here. This cutting-edge solution eliminates bed bugs and their eggs without any chemicals.

Specifically, it is a large box measuring 2.5 m x 3 m, called a heat chamber, equipped with a heating and ventilation system.

Contaminated items such as furniture, suitcases, mattresses, etc. can be placed inside, then a thermal shock is triggered to eradicate bed bugs at all stages of their life cycle.

The scientific validation of the system was carried out by Jean-Michel Bérenger, a renowned medical entomologist, guaranteeing maximum effectiveness and a rigorously tested protocol..

Why choose the BugBuster?

The BugBuster is an essential ally for professionals dealing with infestations.

Here are its advantages:

✅ Speed: less than 2 hours are needed for a complete treatment, compared to nearly 8 hours with conventional solutions.

✅ Versatility: whether it’s suitcases, mattresses, laundry trolleys or various textiles, the BugBuster adapts to all types of infested items.

✅ Safety: the thermal process poses no risk of damage to the treated materials.

✅ Large treatment volume: up to 200 suitcases, 33 mattresses or 6 trolleys can be treated in a single cycle.

BugBuster: a solution tailored to the needs of professionals

Hotels, hostels, communities, university residences, business premises, an infestation of bed bugs can be catastrophic for professionals. The consequences are short-term (treatment costs, slowdown in activity, etc.), but also long-term (damaged brand image, bad reviews, etc.).

➡️ In short, acting quickly is crucial.

The BugBuster has been specially designed to meet these requirements. Powerful, fast and secure, the solution adapts to the needs of professionals.

Let’s take the example of a hotel with several rooms infested with bed bugs. The infestation can quickly spread throughout the entire establishment, leading to its temporary closure and therefore a significant loss of revenue. With the BugBuster heat treatment unit, it is possible to treat up to 33 mattresses and numerous pieces of furniture in two hours without damaging them. Business can resume more quickly and safely.

What’s more, each establishment can benefit from a customised oven with:

✅ Adjusted dimensions

✅ Adapted heat treatment cycles

✅ Optimised configuration for certain types of materials

BugBuster + Serenid: a winning combination

To ensure even more comprehensive treatment, Nocibilis has added an extra step in partnership with Serenid.

At the end of each heat cycle, Serenid Bed Bug SOS Spray (which individuals can also use at home) is sprayed inside the heat chamber. This finishing product acts as an additional barrier, reinforcing the effectiveness of the treatment by targeting any bed bugs that may be resistant or present in hard-to-reach areas.

This combined approach offers two advantages:

Complete disinfection of treated surfaces and objects.
Maximum safety for occupants and staff, thanks to an approved product that is harmless to human health, animals or materials.

➡️ Result: a 100% safe, environmentally friendly and ultra-effective protocol..

SOS Bed bugs

24,90 €

• Super-powerful curative spray for bed bugs
• Eliminates 100% of all bed bugs (eggs, larvae, adults)
• Immediate, safe, long-lasting protection
• Over 200,000 satisfied Sereni-d^® customers

CONCENTRATED FORMULA – MAXIMUM RESULT

In stock

Catégorie : Products

Posted on 18 August 202518 August 2025 by Marine Falconnet — Leave a comment

Bed bugs in universities: solutions for students and staff

University campuses are ideal breeding grounds for bed bug infestations. With students constantly coming and going, outdated facilities and limited resources for prevention, the risk of these pests taking hold is high. Closures are sometimes unavoidable, with disastrous consequences for both students and staff. Causes, risks, prevention solutions and recommended treatments: here is all the practical information you need on this subject, tailored to the university context.

In brief

➡️ University residences are particularly vulnerable to bed bugs due to the high turnover of students and often dilapidated premises.

➡️ An infestation can have serious health, psychological and organisational consequences.

➡️ Professional treatment is the most effective solution: inspection, heat or steam treatment, thorough vacuuming and regular monitoring.

➡️ Students and staff should be made aware of the correct measures to take.

Universities: places particularly vulnerable to bed bugs

A high turnover of students

University residences and campuses are constantly busy places. Every semester, new French and international students arrive, while others leave their accommodation for internships, university exchanges or to finish their studies. This constant turnover makes it easy for bed bugs to take hold. These small insects can easily be carried in students’ belongings, such as suitcases, clothing and bed linen.

The situation can quickly escalate, as a single bed bug in a room can cause an infestation throughout the entire building.

Remember that a single female bed bug can lay 5 to 15 eggs per day.

The start of the school year is a particularly risky time. With holidays and trips abroad, the chances of bringing bed bugs home with you are multiplied. This is especially true since cases of infestation increase in summer.

Dilapidated university premises

In France, one third of university premises are in poor condition (source). Some buildings, such as those at the Sorbonne Paris Nord University (Paris XIII), are downright dilapidated.

According to a report by the Court of Auditors, ‘many buildings date from the 1960s and are reaching the end of their life cycle’.

These structures are riddled with cracks in the walls, loose skirting boards, damaged floors and worn furniture. An ideal playground for bed bugs, as these insects love this type of hiding place.

These conditions are particularly problematic in collective residences, where rooms are close to each other and often share common areas. An infestation in a single room can quickly spread to an entire floor or even the entire building.

➡️ To go further: Understanding the different levels of bed bug infestation.

Insufficient prevention measures

The State owns 82% of university buildings (source). Unfortunately, investment is clearly insufficient.

In many university residences and faculties, the fight against bed bugs is hampered by budgetary constraints.

Landlords, CROUS (the French student housing agency) and higher education institutions have limited resources to implement effective prevention policies. Financial priorities generally focus on routine maintenance, urgent repairs and services for students receiving grants.

As a result, control measures are often taken too late, once the infestation is well established.

The lack of standardised protocols, regular inspections and staff training exacerbates the problem.

Serious consequences in the event of infestation

A bed bug infestation in a university can turn into a nightmare for both students and the institution. First and foremost, it is a health problem, with itching from bites and sleep disturbances, not to mention the psychological risks such as stress and anxiety. The academic success of students can be seriously compromised.

It is also an economic problem for the institution. Carrying out a complete treatment of the premises is very expensive. Sometimes closure is inevitable, as was the case at the law faculty in Aix-en-Provence following the report of a bed bug in a lecture theatre.

Finally, the institution’s image may be tarnished, deterring some French or international students from enrolling.

How can you recognise an infestation in a university residence?

Les signes visibles

Here are some signs that you may have bed bugs:

Clustered or aligned bites, often on the arms, legs or back.
Intense itching, worse at night.
Small black marks on sheets, pillowcases or mattress covers.
Red or brown spots that may be caused by crushed insects.
Whitish eggs about 1 mm in size, stuck in seams or corners.
Translucent skins left behind by young bedbugs as they grow.

Of course, reports made by students must be taken seriously and dealt with as quickly as possible by management.

Areas to inspect first

Bed bugs hide mainly near their food source and in dark corners. Here are the places to check first:

Bedding:

Seams and folds in the mattress.
Slats, gaps and stapled fabric on the bed base.
Pillows, covers and blankets.

Furniture near the bed:

Bedside tables, drawers and shelves.
Cracks in desks, wardrobes and chests of drawers.

Fixed structures:

Behind skirting boards and cracks in walls.
Under loose wallpaper.
In electrical sockets and switches.

Personal items:

Suitcases, backpacks and folded or stacked clothing.
Curtains, rugs and decorative cushions.

➡️ Good to know: canine detection is the most reliable and accurate method for detecting bed bug infestations.

Treatment solutions tailored to universities

Call in a certified professional

Exorbitant prices, misleading diagnoses, use of ineffective products… Unfortunately, scams are common among service providers.

It is essential to call in a service provider with the Certibiocide label and, ideally, a specialised certification such as Certipunaise.

As a university administrator, you can consult the following two resources:

The map of Prosane-approved professionals
The directory of CS3D-certified companies (Chambre Syndicale Dératisation, Désinsectisation, Désinfection)

Implementation of professional treatment

A qualified professional follows a strict protocol designed to eradicate the infestation while minimising disruption to students.

Steps	Main actions	Objective
1. Assessment and mapping of infestation	Complete visual inspection, certified canine detection, identification of infestation sites.	Identify all infested areas to plan targeted and comprehensive treatment.
2. Preparing the premises	Information for students and staff, isolation of items, high-temperature washing, protection of furniture.	Limit spread and allow full access to areas to be treated.
3. Thermal and mechanical treatment	Dry steam at 120°C on mattresses, bed bases, skirting boards; vacuuming with HEPA filter.	Immediately destroy eggs, nymphs and adults to reduce the population.
4. Targeted chemical treatment	Application of approved insecticides (shock + residual effect), drying powders in corners and outlets.	Ensure continuous action to prevent reinfestation.
5. Second intervention	Repeat treatment 7 to 15 days later, check and reapply if necessary.	Eliminate bedbugs that hatch from eggs after the first treatment.
6. Post-treatment prevention	Installation of anti-bedbug covers, setting of traps, staff training, and monitoring over a four-week period.	Prevent infestation from returning and react quickly if you suspect an infestation.

What students should do

If you are a student and you find bed bugs in your room, the first thing to do is to report it to the administration as soon as possible.

While waiting for professional treatment to be carried out, here is what you can do:

☑️ Wash bedding and clothing at a high temperature of 60°C.

☑️ Tumble dry at maximum temperature for at least 30 minutes.

☑️ For delicate clothing, freeze at -20°C for at least 72 hours.

☑️ Isolate infested items in airtight bags.

☑️ Thoroughly vacuum the room with a vacuum cleaner with a narrow nozzle along the skirting boards, mattress seams and cracks. Empty the bag into an airtight bag.

☑️ Avoid carrying suitcases or bags into other rooms or common areas to prevent the spread of bed bugs.

For more information: Bed bug treatment protocol.

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Essential prevention

When it comes to bed bugs, prevention is better than cure. An advanced infestation is very difficult to treat, especially over large areas.

Prevention is therefore essential. Student residence managers, social landlords and university housing services (CROUS, schools, faculties) must implement a proactive policy including:

Training for cleaning and maintenance staff

Some pest control professionals offer training courses to:

Learn how to identify signs of infestation
Know where to look first
Respond quickly if you suspect an infestation
Use prevention and treatment equipment correctly

The appointment of a ‘bed bug officer’ within the university can therefore prove very useful.

Reconnaître des piqures de punaises de lit

Raising awareness among students

Informing students is essential to limit the appearance and spread of bed bugs.

Here is an example of what an effective awareness campaign might include:

☑️ Posters and visual aids in halls, lifts and common areas explaining:

How to recognise bed bugs and their eggs.
The main signs of infestation (bites, black spots, traces of blood).
What to do immediately if you suspect an infestation.

☑️ Information meetings at the beginning of the year:

Presentation of the risks and consequences of an infestation.
Advice on how to avoid bringing them back after a trip or stay away from home.

☑️ Practical guides distributed to students:

Rules for maintaining bedding (regular washing at high temperatures).
Use of anti-bedbug covers on mattresses and pillows.
Importance of reporting any suspicions to the manager immediately.

☑️ Digital communication

Emails and posts on the university’s social media accounts.
Video tutorials on inspecting rooms and furniture.

FAQ

I live in a university residence infested with bed bugs. Who has to pay for the treatment of my room?

Treatment for bed bugs in rented accommodation is the responsibility of the landlord (CROUS, private residence, etc.), unless it can be proven that the student caused the infestation through inappropriate use of the accommodation. In the case of university accommodation, the manager must call in a certified professional and cover the costs of treating the room and common areas.

Bed bugs in a school: do I have the right to refuse to attend classes?

Schools and universities have a duty to ensure the health and safety of students and staff. However, refusing to attend classes without a valid medical reason or an official closure notice may result in unauthorised absences. If you suspect or find bed bugs in a classroom or lecture theatre, report the situation to the administration immediately.

What should I do if I find bed bugs in my student room?

Report the presence of insects immediately to the manager or CROUS. Do not move your furniture to avoid dispersing the insects. Wash your laundry and bedding at a high temperature. Avoid ineffective home remedies (aerosol sprays, essential oils alone).

Posted on 30 July 202530 July 2025 by Marine Falconnet — Leave a comment

Bed bugs invite themselves along for the summer holidays

A 50% increase for summer 2025! According to the Union of Canine Bed Bug Detection Experts (SEDCPL), infestations of these pests are skyrocketing compared to 2024. Here’s why.

In brief

➡️ +50% increase in bed bug infestations in France between June 2024 and June 2025.

➡️ However, cases fell by 26% in the first six months of the year.

➡️ With tourist travel and high temperatures, summer is a high-risk period for bed bugs.

➡️ Simple measures can protect you both while travelling and when you return home.

Twice as many bed bugs this summer 2025

Bed bugs are not just a psychosis amplified by Russian hackers on social media. A study conducted by the Union of Bed Bug Detection Dog Handlers (SEDCPL) and reported by BFM TV is clear: the number of infestations increased by 50% between June 2024 and June 2025. France, like many countries around the world, is therefore severely affected.

An encouraging start to the year, however

Although cases skyrocketed during the summer, the start of 2025 has been encouraging. Over the first six months, the study shows a 26% decrease in interventions against bed bugs. 76,000 interventions were carried out against these pests.

According to Sébastien Pizzocaro, president of SEDPCL: ‘There are fewer bedbugs in Occitanie and Brittany, but we don’t know why. On the other hand, the south-east, the Paris basin and Lyon have been badly affected for a long time.’

How can this improvement be explained? It seems that prevention efforts, particularly by professionals, have paid off. Hotels that are highly exposed have implemented prevention protocols on a massive scale.

Summer holidays: a risky time

Tourism: an accelerator of infestation

The summer season is ideal for the proliferation of bed bugs. And for good reason: the large numbers of people travelling by train, plane or bus, as well as staying in tourist accommodation (hotels, rentals, hostels, hiking lodges, etc.) greatly increase the risk of contamination.

Every suitcase placed on a bed, every backpack in a cloakroom and every sheet used by several travellers becomes a potential vector for infestation.

For information, a single female bug can lay up to 5 eggs per day and 500 in its lifetime. If no action is taken, a colony can form in a matter of weeks.

Unfortunately, travellers sometimes bring these pests home with them without knowing it. A bug hidden in the seam of a suitcase or in an item of clothing can easily infest an entire home upon return.

It should also be remembered that France is the most visited country in the world, with over 90 million tourists a year. In summer, large cities such as Paris, Marseille, Lyon and Bordeaux see their temporary population explode. Bed bugs can therefore move en masse from one place to another.

Bed bugs love heat

Summer, with its high temperatures, creates an ideal environment for them to reproduce.

The warmer it is, the faster the egg development cycle: at 28°C, a bug can go from egg to adult in just three weeks, compared to several months in winter.

Rising temperatures linked to global warming are making the problem worse. Plus, the heat often means people use more light fabrics (thin sheets, piles of clothes, open luggage). All of these are potential hiding places for these insects…

Holidaymakers: what to do if you encounter bed bugs

At your holiday destination

Hotels, Airbnb rentals, hostels, campsites… no accommodation is completely safe from bed bugs, not even luxury establishments!

Here are some good habits to adopt as soon as you arrive to avoid bringing these pests home with you:

✅ Inspect the bed as soon as you arrive

Lift the sheets and check:

the seams of the mattress,
the folds of the bedding,
the bed base and the headboard.

Look for small black spots, translucent skins or pearly white eggs stuck to the edges.

For optimal prevention, you can use our Serenid repellent strips.

✅ Avoid placing your suitcase on the bed or on the floor

Place your luggage high up, preferably on a metal rack or in the bathroom (less exposed). If you have a fabric travel bag, pack it in a sealed plastic bag when not in use.

✅ Use a bedbug-proof laundry bag

Store your clothes in a dedicated bag to limit the risk of contamination. Bedbugs love to hide in folded clothes or clothes left on the floor.

✅ Check for suspicious bites

Lines of bites, often on the arms, back or legs, can be a sign of infestation. If you have any doubts, notify the owner or reception immediately and ask to change rooms or accommodation.

Useful resources:

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When you get home

Even if your trip went well, you need to remain vigilant once you get home. Bed bugs can hide in your suitcases and clothes.

Here are some good habits to adopt as soon as you arrive:

✅ Do not unpack your suitcase in your bedroom

Avoid opening your luggage directly near the bed or in rooms where you will be resting. Set it down in a tiled area that is easy to clean (hallway, bathroom, etc.).

✅ Wash all clothing immediately

Even unworn clothing should be washed at 60°C for at least 30 minutes or put in a hot dryer. This step is essential to eliminate any eggs or bedbugs that may have been transported.

✅ Vacuum your suitcase thoroughly

Vacuum the inside and outside of your suitcase (using a narrow nozzle). Immediately dispose of the vacuum cleaner bag in a sealed plastic bag.

✅ Monitor your bedding over the following weeks

Regularly inspect your mattress, bed base and skirting boards. If you have any doubts (bites, black spots, etc.), act quickly to prevent the infestation from spreading.

✅ Use a fabric treatment spray on your luggage and clothing

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Posted on 11 July 202511 July 2025 by Marine Falconnet — Leave a comment

How to recognise and eliminate bed bug eggs?

Early detection of bed bug eggs is essential to ensure effective treatment and stop the infestation in your home. Here is our practical advice, accompanied by photos, on where they lay their eggs, how long they take to hatch, how to detect them and how to get rid of them.

In brief

➡️ Bedbug eggs are about 1 mm long, pearly white and stick to surfaces thanks to a waxy substance.

➡️ To detect them, inspect mattresses, bed frames, skirting boards and cracks for small shiny white eggs and black traces of excrement.

➡️ An adult female lays 5 to 15 eggs per day, up to 500 eggs in her lifetime.

➡️ Rapid hatching time: 5 to 10 days at 28°C, 10 to 14 days at 20°C, slowed down below 15°C.

➡️ The eggs are resistant to conventional insecticides; only heat (steam at >120°C) or intense cold (-20°C for 72 hours) can eliminate them.

What do bed bug eggs look like?

Size and shape of eggs

Bed bug eggs are extremely small and difficult to spot.

Here’s how to recognise them:

✅ Size: approximately 1 mm long and 0.5 mm wide, about the size of a pinhead.

✅ Shape: elongated and slightly curved, resembling a small grain of rice, but much smaller and thinner.

⚠️ Caution: to the naked eye, they can be mistaken for light-coloured dust, dandruff or micro-debris.

Colour and texture

✅ Colour: they are generally pearly white to translucent in colour, with a slight sheen. This colour may change over time, from a more opaque white to a slightly transparent appearance before hatching.

✅ Texture: the surface of the egg is smooth and shiny, almost glossy, unlike dust particles or dry debris, which are dull.

✅ Sticky appearance: each egg is covered with a waxy substance secreted by the female when laying. This natural glue allows the eggs to remain firmly attached to the surface where they were laid (wood, fabric, mattress seams, skirting boards, etc.). This is why they do not fall off even if the fabric is shaken.

In the event of infestation, you may see clusters of eggs stuck together over a few square millimetres, often lined up or grouped together in a fold or crack.

Pourquoi les punaises de lit se cachent dans le matelas ?

Where do female bed bugs lay their eggs?

Female bed bugs lay their eggs in strategic locations, close to their food source (your blood) and away from light.

Here are their favourite hiding places:

✅ Mattresses and bed bases: they often lay their eggs in the seams, folds, labels and zips of mattresses, as well as under the fabric of upholstered bed bases.

✅ Headboards and bed frames: cracks in the wood, grooves and gaps in metal or wooden frames are ideal places, especially if they are close to where you sleep.

✅ Skirting boards and cracks in walls: female bed bugs like to lay their eggs in small cracks, behind skirting boards, under loose wallpaper or at the junction between the floor and the wall.

✅ Furniture near the bed: bedside tables, bed frames, shelves and even drawers can harbour eggs, especially in cases of advanced infestation.

✅ Textiles and clothing: although less common, eggs may be laid on fabrics left on the floor or piled up near the bed, as well as on curtains or carpets.

See also: How to recognise a bed bug nest

How long does it take for bed bug eggs to hatch?

Hatching time depending on temperature

The hatching time for bed bug eggs varies mainly according to the ambient temperature:

Ambient temperature	Egg hatching time	Comments
28°C (ideal temperature)	5 to 10 days	Very rapid infestation in heated accommodation.
20°C (average temperature in a home)	10 to 14 days	Standard development in an apartment or house.
< 15°C	20 to 30 days or hatching stopped	Hatching is slowed down; temporarily stop below 13°C.

A bed bug egg can survive for several weeks without hatching if the temperature is too low, then resume its normal development as soon as conditions become favourable.

Rapid life cycle and risk of infestation

As soon as they hatch, young bedbugs (called nymphs) must feed on blood to begin their growth. They then go through five stages before becoming adults, feeding on blood at each stage, which explains why colonies can spread so quickly if no treatment is implemented.

➡️ See also: Bed bug behaviour and biology.

How many eggs can a bed bug lay?

An adult female bed bug lays an average of 3 to 5 eggs per day, provided she has regular access to a blood meal.

Over her lifetime (usually 4 to 6 months, but up to 12 months in ideal conditions), she can lay up to 200 to 500 eggs.

➡️ Good to know: after mating, the female is capable of laying eggs for several weeks, even without mating again. This rapid reproduction cycle explains why it is so important to treat an infestation as soon as the first signs appear.

How can you detect the presence of bed bug eggs?

Signs to look for

Spotting bed bug eggs is not always easy, as they are tiny and well hidden. These insects are nocturnal, so don’t hesitate to carry out a night-time inspection with a torch.

Here’s what to look for:

✅ Small pearly white eggs

The eggs are white, slightly shiny, and measure about 1 mm. They look like tiny grains of rice stuck to surfaces. You will usually find them in clusters, especially in dark hiding places close to the bed.

✅ Traces of excrement

Look for small black spots (similar to felt-tip pen dots) on the mattress, seams, bed frame, skirting boards or headboard. These traces are bedbug droppings, rich in digested blood.

✅ Bedbug skins

Bedbugs moult five times before reaching adulthood. You may therefore find translucent skins (empty shells) near infested areas, indicating their active presence.

✅ Presence of adults or nymphs

During your inspection, you may see live bedbugs. Nymphs are translucent to yellowish in colour, and adults are brown, about the size of an apple seed.

➡️ Good to know: Canine detection is a very effective method for detecting hidden bed bug eggs and bed bugs.

How to kill bed bug eggs effectively?

Unfortunately, bed bug eggs are the most resistant stage of their life cycle. Their waxy shell protects them from conventional insecticides. This makes them particularly difficult to eliminate. Here are the treatment methods recommended by experts.

Heat treatment

High temperatures are the most reliable method for eliminating bed bug eggs.

We therefore recommend using a dry steam cleaner (minimum 120°C). For your information, this type of appliance can be rented from specialist DIY stores.

➡️ Slowly steam all infested surfaces: mattress seams, skirting boards, headboards, upholstered bed bases, cracks. Hold the nozzle 5-10 cm from the surface for at least 2 to 3 seconds to reach the inside of the eggs and kill them.

Extreme cold is also a viable option. Freezing should be carried out at -20°C for a minimum of 72 hours.

➡️ Place clothes, bags and small non-washable items in an airtight bag and then directly into the freezer. Please note that a simple freezer compartment is not sufficient; you need a freezer that can actually reach -20°C.

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The vacuum cleaner: useful but incomplete

Use a powerful vacuum cleaner with a narrow nozzle to suck up any eggs visible in the cracks or seams of the mattress.

➡️ Practical tip: after vacuuming, immediately seal the bag in a plastic bag and throw it in an outdoor bin.

Caution: eggs stick strongly to surfaces. Suction alone is therefore not 100% effective. Always combine with steam cleaning.

Washing textiles at high temperatures

Wash sheets, covers, clothing and any other machine-washable textiles at 60°C for at least 30 minutes. Bed bugs do not survive at this temperature.

In addition to washing, especially for thick textiles or removable mattress covers, use a tumble dryer on a high heat cycle for at least 30 minutes.

Professional treatment: essential in the event of a serious infestation

If eggs are present throughout your home, a certified professional (Certibiocide, ideally Certipunaise) will be able to combine targeted chemical treatments and thermal methods (heat gun, professional dry steam) to effectively eliminate all stages of bedbug development.

⚠️ Beware of scams, which are rife in this sector.

Prevention: prevent further egg laying

Protect your mattress and bedding

✅ Spray a repellent spray on the bedding

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✅ Use a bed bug cover

The cover acts as a physical barrier: if any bed bugs or eggs are still present in the mattress, they will eventually die inside due to lack of food, and no new bed bugs will be able to enter.

Opt for a full cover specially designed to protect against bed bugs.

It must completely enclose the mattress, with a secure zip and an anti-return system to prevent insects from escaping.

Tip: regularly check the condition of the cover and steam clean the outside to remove any eggs that may have been laid on the surface.

fermeture d'une housse contre les punaises de lit

✅ Wash bed linen regularly

Change and wash your sheets, pillowcases, blankets and covers at a minimum of 60°C every week if you live in a high-risk area or in an infested building.

✅ Avoid direct contact between the mattress and the floor or walls

Leave a space between your mattress and the walls to limit bed bugs’ access to sleeping areas. Raise your bed if possible and place bed bug traps under each leg to quickly detect any new intruders.

Other preventive measures

Place diatomaceous earth in hard-to-reach corners (skirting boards, cracks, behind furniture).
Vacuum bedrooms regularly and empty the vacuum cleaner into a sealed bag.
Seal cracks in walls and furniture.

FAQ

Do bed bug eggs move?

No, bed bug eggs do not move. Unlike nymphs (called larvae), eggs remain completely immobile because they are firmly attached to the surface on which the female laid them (mattresses, seams, wood, cracks, etc.).

Can you see the eggs with the naked eye?

Yes, bed bug eggs are visible to the naked eye, but they are very small and inconspicuous. They are about 1 mm long, white to pearly white in colour and have a slightly curved, elongated shape, like a small grain of rice or a tiny cylinder. They are difficult to spot on light-coloured surfaces (mattresses, sheets, white skirting boards). Using a torch and a magnifying glass can make the task easier.

Are eggs resistant to conventional insecticides?

Yes, bed bug eggs are highly resistant to conventional insecticides. Their outer shell is covered with a thin waxy layer that protects them from chemicals. This is why, even after chemical treatment, eggs can survive and hatch a few days later, restarting the infestation.

When do bed bugs lay eggs?

Bed bugs lay eggs throughout their adult life, as soon as they have had a sufficient blood meal. After each meal, the female can lay eggs in the following days, between 5 and 15 eggs per day, especially in ideal temperature conditions around 25-28°C.

Are bed bug eggs hard or soft?

Bedbug eggs are slightly soft when laid, but they harden quickly as they dry. Their shells then become firm and sticky, allowing them to adhere firmly to surfaces such as mattress seams or cracks in wood.